The underrated local gems (and fine diners) this top chef loves eating at the most

From hosting intimate dinners at home, to opening hatted fine diner Enter Via Laundry in Carlton three years ago, Indian-born, Melbourne-based chef Helly Raichura – author of The Food of Bharat – admits it was her single-episode appearance as a guest judge on MasterChef in 2020 that continues to draw many international travellers to her restaurant.

“It’s amazing how pivotal that episode was for me,” says Raichura, who moved to Australia in 2007 and worked in HR before delving into her love of cooking.

“We recently had customers from Singapore, Indonesia, the UK and USA, and all say they booked the restaurant because of the MasterChef clip they saw online.”

When she first arrived in Melbourne, Raichura lived near Swinburne University in Hawthorn, where she was studying, often hanging at the Geebung Hotel, where she was initiated into the concept of pub grub.

“I was struggling to find vegetarian options, and it was a total culture shock for me because there were no share dishes coming out of the kitchen. What you ordered was your meal alone,” she recalls.

“It was a popular place to hang out, though, and we enjoyed the university crowd. But it was so foreign to me at the time,” she says.

Eating in

My signature dish and go-to at home

I love eating kitchari, and I often cook it for the whole family – up to eight people, if my parents are around. You can keep it simple – it’s basically rice and lentils, and if time permits, you can add more grains and vegetables and exotic spices or meat.

My guilty pleasure

I always have a frozen bag of dumplings in my freezer. I fry and eat them with a lot of chilli oil and soy sauce. It’s a dish that comforts me when things aren’t going my way.

The kitchen wisdom I cling to

My cooking style is instinctive and I continue to approach the kitchen in the same way. I hold onto the basics I learned growing up in an Indian household – like how to cook rice, chapati and vegetables. And in Australia, I go with what is fresh and in season.

Eating out

My favourite Melbourne restaurants (and go-to dishes)

I have been going to Roti Boti in Hampton since 2007. It’s a typical north Indian restaurant. The service and food are excellent. It’s where I like to order saag [leafy greens cooked with spices], makki ki roti and tadka dal. My kids love the garlic naan. It’s the very simple and slow-cooked saag that they do so well. The makki ki roti is made out of corn and is difficult to make. There’s no gluten, and I go there to enjoy this too.

I also love Capitano in Carlton for pizza and wine. The vodka sauce there is spicy and delicious, and the pizzas are crunchy, soft, fresh and rich at the same time. I am also a fan of crumbed mozzarella, which is stretchy cheesy goodness.

Middle Eastern restaurant Rumion Nicholson Street is a beautiful spot. It’s where I order batata harra [spicy potatoes], almond dip, the silky eggplant, delicious prawns with baharat spices and tahini. Everything on the menu is spot on, well-balanced and feels nourishing. You must try the baklava ice-cream sandwiches – it’s flaky layered pastry with cinnamon-flavoured ice-cream in the centre.

My favourite place to eat in Australia, and what special food memories it holds

I love Flower Drum for a fine-dining experience. It’s consistently great food and the variety is endless. While some classics are a must, like the Peking duck and pearl meat, I also enjoy Jade tiger abalone, which is cooked to perfection. The luxurious fried rice with crab and truffle, crayfish noodles, and mango rolls, when they’re in season, are some of the most satisfying eats in Melbourne.

Two-hatted Chae is another must-dine for an extraordinary experience. [Chef Jung Eun] Chae makes real-deal Korean sauces that have depth. Her skilfully prepared ferments, vinegars and broths are medicinal and healing. She is dedicated to her skill and heritage; the experience is not just satisfying but also educational. Don’t leave without buying pear vinegar and gochujang.

My favourite Sydney restaurants and bars (and go-to orders)

I love Fratelli Paradiso for simple but well done Italian. Service is exceptional, the wine list has some beautiful wines. Go for thinly sliced octopus with chickpeas dressed in olive oil, and any pasta special of the day. I always finish off with an Italian espresso.

When it comes to cocktails, you can’t go past Cantina OK! They are serious about mezcal. Margaritas are obligatory and I always follow their specials, which change often, and finish with fresh fruit dusted with spice. This place is tiny and lives up to the definition of a hole-in-the-wall shop. The music and bartenders make the experience transportative.

On the road

Favourite food city and what I love to eat there

Mumbai. I always stay in South Mumbai — it’s where all the great places and tourist attractions are.

I go to Swati Snacks, a casual dining restaurant for a great handvo ( fermented rice and grains, which are spiced, then baked) served with chutney. Panki, a thin rice batter pancake cooked by steaming in banana leaf, is a must-order. Also try the panipuri and Dal Dhokli. Maghai paan – a young betel leaf with fennel, toasted betel nut, coconut and jellies is also amazing and hyper-seasonal.

Head to Ashok Vada Pav near Mithibai College for a spicy vada pav filled with batter-fried spiced mashed potatoes, red hot spicy chilli and dry chilli chutney. Thank me later – it’s worth the long queue.

Head to Masque for fine-dining Indian. It’s exceptional. While the menu changes seasonally, there is almost always a thali that is balanced and traditional. There is also an Indian wine pairing for experimental souls.

I love Ekaa Mumbai for world-class cocktails and snacks. It’s one of the most innovative bar offerings I have ever experienced. They blend lesser-known Indian herbs, spices and roots with high-quality spirits. My favourite is a drink that blends vetiver roots and black garlic.

Head to O Pedro for upscale Goan food. There’s great seafood and poee (goan bread). It is fluffy and perfect to scoop any prawn preparation with coconut milk you order. They go for a modern application of traditional Goan dishes – be it a taco of Choris (agoan sausage) or pork sorpotel, or balchão (a spicy and tangy Goan dish made with prawns).

Helly Raichura’s book The Food of Bharat is published by Hardie Grant. RRP $60.